# 180 – Day in Jaffa

April 23, 2011

My next Letter was going to be – and still will be – about the ‘emergence’ of the Left-wing in Israel, the academic, intellectual and artistic movement which, in some eyes has cerated ‘traitors in their own country’.

The Left criticises the Israeli aggression, occupation and oppression. The ‘settlers’ in the West Bank cause shivers down many backs. The isolation of Gaza and the oppression of the Israeli Arabs – all cause shivers down those backs.

They are Leftists, so we must be Rightist. Right? Wrong! A Rightist is someone like Liebermann, who wants ‘separation’. Like Rabbi Meir Kahane who started the Kach movement, also pushing for expulsion of Arabs from this land.

The Leftists seem to forget that most Israelis, including Begin, Sharon and even Netanyahu, would sign for peace TODAY if they felt that Israel’s security were not put in danger.

Every sign, every experience we have had points to danger and betrayal. They want a Palestinian state (it seems the one will be declared unilaterally in September, with the backing of many countries), and yet this tiny people can’t even agree with themselves. A Hamas state or a Fatah state? You choose. IT will be another 1947-lie resolution. Another with opposition that will not or cannot accept the consequences.

No, I shall leave that subject till the next letter. In the meantime, perhaps some of you want to write to me on the subject.

Right now, I want to write about a beautiful day in Jaffa. Come walk with me…

Jaffa is the original mixed city that preceded Tel Aviv. Mostly Arab originally, the Jews ‘moved out’ of Jaffa in 1909 and established Tel Aviv. After the establishment of Israel, the 2 became the municipality of Tel Aviv-Jaffa. Much to the delight of many, and the frustration of the usual few, Jaffa is now one of the expanding urban areas of the country, with a nice mixture of old and new.

Let’s start with the newly developed seafront and park –

In the far distance on the left picture, about 12 km., there is the chimney of Reading power station, which is just 1 km. south of ‘our beach’.

I’ve sometimes driven on my bike from there, past the Tel Aviv seafront, down to Jaffa and the next town, Bat Yam (‘mermaid’).

We were Aviva, my wife, with her sister’s husband, Dani (a leading artist from Haifa) and his friend. Nir, a retired El Al pilot and himself a successful artist. With Nir’s ladyfriend, Essia, we visited a gallery showing work by Batia Eisenwasser-Jancourt (obviously not Chinese)…

Most of these were oil on giclée. (Giclée is the successor of lithograph; a system of scanning onto canvas. The repros are so good, that, by law, they have to be numbered – like the lithographs – and registered).

Essia outside the gallery – and inside with NIr and Libby, the dachshund.

And some of the unbelievable paintings..

Naive, with a little bit of Hundertwasser….

Then more walking through the wonderful alleys of Old Jaffa..

From there, we discovered yet another gallery. This time, specially for me, glass art. Sidor Cohen was a mechanical engineer, who used his skills to create art from all kinds of material. Some years ago, he ‘discovered’ glass in art form. He studied in Jerusalem among many who were his kid’s age.

And then we were hungry. We found ‘Azteca’, only recently opened…

Our first ‘attraction’ was a couple sitting next to us..

She’s Zha Zha, from Hannover. He’s King Hurricane Kwazulu – from Lesotho (S. Africa). They’re special in every way. First…well just look at them! He’s a musician (oh, what a surprise). But what is a surprise is that he does not play reggae. He plays most everything else. His speciality instrument (he plays many) is the beat box. That’s what such guys do with their lips….

King had been travelling for many years, always wanting to move on. When he came here, 2 years ago, he felt that this could be his home. Israel… Wow. He said that he knew the Israelis to be rather loud and aggressive. After being here some time he had come to the conclusion that, yes, the Israelis are loud and aggressive (as are many other peoples).

But now he understood it, and it was OK.  This tiny country, what was seen a few months ago as the problem pinpoint in the Middle East, and which is now the peaceful pinpoint in the Middle East, has a big enough heart and personality to attract such a man.

Zha Zha? She’s also been travelling the World, picking fruit in Australia and teaching there. She tried to get into India, but no visa. So she contacted the friend she had met in the Canaries, and he said to come here – and she came. I have a feeling she’ll also stay.

Such a perfect couple.

Dani wanted a picture with them….

So tall….’Pick him up’, I requested….

Happy (end of) Passover and Happy Easter to you all….

Stephen