Surfing and me

Surfing is a really fun but highly challenging sport. It’s fun to be out in the deep blue water and it is quite hard to manage to stand and balance on your board.

In fact I know how to surf by myself and this is how it was for me at the first time.

At first it was hard and scary to get out of the shore break and out to the deep water. You need to really push hard against the incoming waves in order to get further out, where the big waves are, which don’t break right away.

It was very hard to reach the deep water after fighting myself through the shore break. I had to rest and lie on my surfboard and catch my breath after all that hard work.

Finally, I was ready to catch a wave and surf.

The history of surfing.

The art of surfing, known as he’enalu in the Hawaiian language, was first described in 1769^[1] by Joseph Banks during the ships stay in Tahiti.  The chief (Ali’i) was the most skilled wave rider in the community with the best board made from the best tree. The ruling class had the best beaches and the best boards, and the commoners, the poor people, were not allowed on the same beaches, but they could gain prestige by their ability to ride the surf on their boards.

What skills do you need to surf?

When you surf, you pit yourself against the elements. You need to master a wide ranging gamut of skills before you can competently ride a wave.

• Swimming – Let’s start with swimming. If you can’t make it to ten strokes without flipping backward and floating the rest of the way down a swimming pool, you better put off learning how to surf and focus on becoming a stronger swimmer. Things happen in the ocean that are completely out of your control and you’ll need swimming prowess to survive
• Paddling – To get out there, you need to paddle. Lie down on your belly and practise paddling with your arms. If you’re not used to it, you’ll feel the burn in a bit, and that’s without the resistance of water. Needless to say, you’ll have to build strength in your arms to even get to the surfer’s line-up. This comes in time with practice and persistence
• Tackling a breaking wave – It’s also a whole other perspective with your body so close to the board. Suddenly those teeny, gentle waves you see from the beach are much bigger and more powerful when you’re out there. There are many times when you’ll have to pass a wave and you need to learn the following tactics to avoid getting battered.

Who can surf?

Every person who can swim, paddle and take a breaking wave, can surf. Old people and kids can surf,even dogs can surf in short, anyone can surf.

There are 2 different boards one can ride:

-one can ride a foam board.  Surfboard foam is what the very inside layer of your surfboard is made from. This foam core enables your surfboard to float better under your body weight, known as buoyancy, and also makes your surfboard a lot lighter to carry around than the sides of trees that were used in the early days of surfing.

one can ride a long board:

–A longboard is  a single-finned, very long surfboard with a large rounded nose and length of 9 to 12 feet (2.7 to 3.7 m).

Top 3 Surfing Destinations in the World

Bundoran Beach, County Donegal, Ireland

About / Location: The cold doesn’t deter die-hard fanatics from these shimmering green waters that produce rolling waves from the moody Atlantic, shaped by bouncing off of the headlands and flat rock reefs. Surf here and the charming Irish locals will offer tips and advice.

Tofino, Vancouver Island, Canada

About / Location: The surfing capital of Canada offers a fun, picturesque break on the west coast of the island and is surrounded by a looming rainforest. It’s suitable for all abilities and stances, just be sure to bring a thick wetsuit — it can get pretty chilly out there.

Watergate Bay, Cornwall, England

About / Location: It’s less famous than Fistral Bay but has even more English charm, is less crowded and equally as surfable. When you’ve finished there’s a cute bistro on the beach where you can tuck into delicious steaks and locally sourced fish.

My family is a surfing family

In my family all the boys surf. My father, three of my brothers and me.

We all surf at Ashdod in Beach Lido.

My father is Australian. He started surfing when he was 15 years old. He is amazing at it.

My older brothers were born here in Israel. My older brothers started surfing when they were 10-11 years old. They are super good surfers in my eyes.

I started surfing, when I was 10 years old.I can do many tricks while surfing like doing a hand stand on my board or surfing while standing backwards.

 As you can see , we can all surf quite well and we all enjoy surfing very much.